June 25, 2021

Oaxaca! (one of the most fun names to say out loud: WA-HA-KA)

As anyone traveling (or, let’s face it, reentering society after a pandemic,) we’ve learned to lean into expecting the unexpected. Oaxaca was archetypical of this, but we loved it regardless!

What we anticipated: hiking and exploring Hierve el Agua, seeing Arbol de Tule, and casually strolling sunny city markets in the evenings. 

What we experienced: as we left Jonacatepec, Morelos, Marin’s grandpa warned her to be alert in Oaxaca, because it’s “caliente” as a city. As we left, we didn’t know what he meant, but as we entered the city, we began to understand. It’s clearly a diverse arts and tourism city currently experiencing political activism and conflict. We never for a moment felt unsafe in Oaxaca, but our curiosity was piqued by political art and messages that we saw on walls all over the city center. We asked several locals during our stay to help us understand what was happening, and we learned that Oaxaca is home to lots of activist groups that take to the streets to protest, and just as much of the rest of the world, Covid has exacerbated the conditions that make people want to stand up for their rights and platforms. Unfortunately for us, that also meant that some of the most prominent tourist sites in Oaxaca were caught up in political conflict and were closed for tourism, so we couldn’t go visit Hierve al Agua or see Arbol de Tule in the traditional way (only from a great distance, although the area around the park was somewhat open.) Instead, we learned the power of serendipity, and found some different adventures instead!

Like we stated, several times over already, we were not mentally or practically prepared to be experiencing the rainy season in Mexico. Although we’d learned this the hard way a couple of times already, the rain in Oaxaca took it to a new level. We were caught in a downpour unlike anything we’d experienced before on our way to find some reputable empanadas one night. Being caught unprepared and hungry, we ditched all plans and ducked into the nearest cafe, which happened to be Ocote, where we’d had coffee that morning. We had a delicious meal for dinner as well as the entire place to ourselves, and the staff were kind enough to offer us towels to dry off in our pitiable state. We visited Ocote several times during our stay in Oaxaca for the delicious spin on traditional local foods, the helpful staff, and comfortable atmosphere. We loved talking with one of the staff about what it’s like to live and work in Oaxaca. We enjoyed the food and company so much we actually ate at Ocote 3 times during our visit! Even though we’ve been surrounded by countless opportunities to try new restaurants and shops, it’s hard to stay away when you find a place where you feel at home! We also now travel with our rain jackets at the ready, no matter how sunny the morning may seem! 

-Coyote Aventuras: One of the major highlights of Oaxaca was our Coyote Aventuras experience through Valle de Teotitlan. This included making candles with a Zapotec guide named Lila who taught us about Zapotec traditions and culture while we got to make our own wax candles. Next we visited Josefina’s house where she prepared an enormous meal with many courses of mole, quesadillas, potatoes, mezcal, and more food than we could ever imagine, made right before us in her outdoor kitchen! We even got a second chance to make tortillas under her tutilage, which was a relief for Morgen and Hannah, eager to redeem ourselves after the failures we endured in Morelos with Marin’s family. To rest up and walk off lunch, we enjoyed a weaving demonstration with Josefina’s mother and husband, who showed how wool is made into yarn, and the various natural elements that create different dyes. All of the demonstrations the family gave us were interactive and completely depended on natural resources. We had no idea so much skill and knowledge went into weaving, and we were thrilled to get to buy some weavings from their shop. Finally, the major feature of our adventure was the hike up El Picacho peak. We hiked up a steep incline to the top of the mountain where we could see for miles around, and then hiked back after sunset. It was definitely challenging, and pushed all of us, both mentally and physically, but it was an unforgettable experience in beautiful countryside. Thank you so much, Coyote Aventuras for guiding us through! It was the one thing we planned that worked out well for us in Oaxaca, and it was an experience we’ll never forget. 

Despite some of our hopes being deffered and redirected in Oaxaca, we met some incredibly warm, kind, and generous people (and delicious food) that made it all worth our while. Gracias, Oaxaca! Hasta la próxima!