June 24, 2021

And now for the big reveal: after Cholula, Puebla, we drove through the countryside to Joncatepec, Morelos. In this installment of our trip, we’ll be recounting our trip to Joncatepec- a rural homestay with Marin’s family over the weekend. This was such an intimate and unique experience that it’s difficult to put into words, but we’re hoping the pictures will help do it justice. 

The name Jonacatepec comes from Nahuatl language and was written Xonakatepek. 

Driving through Puebla/Morelos and into the countryside was beautiful, but certainly a contrast with the rush of Mexico City and even Cholula. Our wonderful driver, Leonel, drove us in his Mexico City taxi the entire way, and we caught more than a few folks giving us some looks as we drove further into country roads and eventually bumpy dirt paths in the white and pink city taxi. 

As soon as we arrived, we agreed that we had no agenda other than enjoying some laid-back family time, and going along with whatever Marin and her family wanted to do. We first met her grandmother, a tiny tiny woman cooking over a fire in the outdoor kitchen under the home’s tin roof. Next we were introduced to Marin’s grandfather, aunt, and cousins. They warmly greeted us (we even received hugs from Abuela!) and were clearly thrilled to be able to see Marin again after being separated by Covid for so long. 

The first order of business was making tortillas by hand for the afternoon meal. Marin’s teenaged cousin, Brenda, had been practicing making them, and was tasked with teaching Hannah and Morgen the tricks of the trade. It turns out it’s not as easy as Tía and Brenda made it seem! They mixed the maíz (ground by Abuela at home with her mill) with water to make the masa (dough) and kneaded it together to the right consistency. Next, form a small ball and press it flat on the tortilla press between layers of plastic to keep the sticky dough from sticking to the press. We learned that it’s very important to handle the thin raw tortilla with care (as we both learned the hard way) as it’s transferred by hand from the press to the stove over the fire. We tried our best, but our first tortilla attempts (torn and bubbly, unevenly cooked) brought some head-shakes and chuckles from Tía. Regardless, the stack of fresh tortillas were piled in a basket, wrapped in a towel to keep them piping hot, and were served with pickled vegetables and stewed meat (wish we could tell you more, but we also engage in the practice of simply saying “Gracias,” and trying everything that’s placed in front of us, especially if it’s made by Grandma. 

We spent the next couple of days enjoying the slow pace and relaxing on the porch with the family’s dogs, Luna and Paloma, the cat, Kitty, and Marin’s youngest cousin, Lupita. A short walk through the puebla led to the center of town, where we watched the cousins play basketball, bought gelatinas for a snack, and watched storm clouds and rainbows pass over the nearby mountains. As previously mentioned, we’re visiting Mexico during the rainy season, which means storms roll in quickly, downpour, and then move out in late afternoon/evening. We again got caught unprepared in the rain one evening in the centro of the pueblo, and took a MotoTaxi home. 

Each morning in Jonacatepec we were woken up abruptly and repeatedly by the resident rooster who made his machismo and presence very much known early and often before sunrise. It was a lot of fun to watch the chickens run through the yard when they were fed in the morning, but it was less fun to be living on the rooster’s schedule. In addition to the roosters in the pueblo, the morning air was also filled with cattle lowing, birds chirping, cicada calls, and community announcements ringing out over loudspeaker about neighbors selling bread, tamales, and other foods for the day. While we’re accustomed to the noise of the city, the noise of the country was something completely different! We were fortunate enough to be there over Father’s Day, and enjoyed a few classic Mexican songs devoted to fathers playing out over the community loudspeaker, too. This was something we’ve never experienced, and it demonstrated just how tight knit and community-focused the rural pueblos are: daily life and rhythms rotate on the axis of family and community, and there is always something cooking on the stove. 

On our last full day in Jonacatepec, Leonel drove us out of the pueblo and into the city Izucar de Matamoros to get the experience of going to the market to buy a week’s groceries and supplies. Although we had wandered a mercado in Cholula, we were on a mission in Izucar de Matamoros to find meat and produce requested by Marin’s family. Because the pueblo is so far from a larger city with a large fresh market, it’s a trip the family only makes once a week or so, and it’s important to know what you’re looking for, as we soon found out. The market was loud, colorful, and overwhelming with all sorts of smells and activity. Vendors offered us samples of their produce, candy, and meats. A woman selling candy offered us what seemed like dozens of spoonfuls of candy to try, even after Hannah bought several bags of mango and tamarindo. The market, in the center of town (zocalo) was in the full heat of the sun when we weren’t inside looking for meat and vegetables, so it was also necesary to stop for a paleta (popsicle) and a diabolito (crushed ice with fruit, sauce, and chile) which we enjoyed on benches under trees in the zocalo. Even amidst Covid, local markets are bustling hives and centers for community and commerce for cities and pueblos alike. After the overwhelming experience of the market, we went back into the countryside for dinner and a peaceful walk to the zocalo. As we walked back, the stars were coming out and we could take our time to enjoy the quiet and calm of the country. 

We said our goodbyes to Marin’s sweet family, thanking them for their warmth and hospitality, and left Jonacatepec with Leonel, bound for Oaxaca. You’ll have to stay tuned to hear what happened next! Thank you as always for following along with us!

Hasta la próxima!

Word of the day: gallo//rooster